Really it is only one full day. I arrived at our apartment at 81 Via dei Pettinari s in Rome at 8 PM Italian time (8:15). The apartment is in the center of Rome directly at the end of the Pont di Sesto. Pentinari is an old street, in an old part of town- probably named for the "Penitents" who would use the thoroughfare for passage, or begging or whipping themselves. It is what I picture a penitent doing.
It is also an area known for "inda" floods because of its closeness to the Tiber. San Salvatore in Onda, next door is the only surviving label of past flooded streets here. It became a street known for sellers of combs and linens. The apartment we rent I calculate is 400 to 500 years old. The hand carved beams on the ceiling are a testment to the workmen ship.
Even though I had not slept in about 24 hours, after arriving I took a long walk across the Pont de Sestre to the Trasevere just across the bridge. "Trasevere" is an interesting word because it obviously comes from the Latin "Trans- Tiberam" or across the Tiber River. On Friday night thousands of young people were hanging out, eating, flirting, drinking, talking, having fun and a few were acting stupid. Maybe 40% Americans, 40% Italians, then everything else. Despite my lack of sleep I walked though the area joyously, happy to be in Rome. Check out my photos.
Just the next morning, I hear the apartment doorbell ring. Bill and Maya were waiting in front of the big wooden door. Immediately we took Bill's suggestion and walked to nearby Campo del Fiore and had a bite to eat. Upon returning Bill and Maya conked out for the next four hours. I took a stroll around the Palitine hill, Colleseum and Roman Forum. Using the river as a crutch, I have been able to easily navigate around this part of the city.
I woke Bill and Maya and we went first to Trasevere Piazza and had a couple of glasses of wine. We watched a gray spray painted short Mexican cowboy lure tourists. Ate olives, corn nuts, potato chips, rice crackers and peanuts with our Chianti. Then we ate a splendid little Hosteria around the corner. We walked down to the river for midnight fun with the Roman youth. Booth after booth was set up along the river with beer restaurants, fast food, book stores, trinkets, carnival games, clothing stores and live music- all there for this one Saturday night. I asked Bill and Maya if they wanted a glass of Limoncello as we listened to a nice little jazz combo. "Avete limoncello?" I asked the bartender. "Non aviamo per niente mais." We listened dry- good thing. We barely could drag ourselves to bed at one AM.
I moved to California in 1978. John and his wife Phyllis became my family. They welcomed me and whomever I brought over, a successive series of girlfriends, my future wife, Donna and of course, our children. Their home became our place of warmth and love through successive crises, celebrations and holidays. This blog celebrates and honors my love for them and an investigation of art from a very subjective point of view.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Rome: Days one and two
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