Sibiu

Photos of Sibiu
Photos of the Transylvania countryside and mountains
I must say something about the beautiful countryside of Romania first. Just north of Burcharest the land is flat and green. These are two lane roads almost the whole distance. There are really only 2 highways, one coming from Pitesti to Bucharest (which I took partially on my way back home and the the one to the Black Sea coastal city of Constanta. What strikes me most is the numbers of people out on the road. Some are walking, some are pulling carts with wood, some are just standing around talking.

The most surprising thing is the number of horses and wagons on the road. Drivers just pull around them. The wagons are of all types: simple open wagons carring wood, decorated wagons, and covered wagons. I watched a team of two horses pull a wagon on a mountain road up hill, followed by a semi tractor trailer only a foot or so away. The horses were booking as fast as they could. I've spoken to a couple of Romanians about this, especially one bus driver, who said that it is a real hazard on the road. Horses sometimes freak out or wagon drivers sometimes drive drunk. Ordinary cars and trucks just pass them when they can, but on narrow windy roads they can really back up traffic.


Just past Ploiesti, about 50 miles north of Bucharest, the hills become rolling and roads with more curves. Every few miles there is a village where drivers must slow down. I have been warned about the police speed traps here, just like in the U.S.. By the time I came to Slanic the hills are must taller. Soon in the distance one can see tall snow covered mountains. These are the "Alps" of Romania or the Bucegi Mountains, the highest in Romania. Still snow covered until June, there is slow road through the mountains that is only open for about four months of the year. For Romanians this is a big recreational area: skiing, hiking and biking especially.


The road to Brasov and into Transylvania follows this mountain range though smaller mountains and thick forests. I got out of the car at the top of one of these mountains to take a little stroll into the forest when multiple dive bombing flies started attacking me. My trek was cut short. Brasov sits in a beautiful valley between starkly rising mountains. It is a dramatic site from a distance. Although a large city Brasov is clean and industrious. Of the entry into this city as into most former Socialist eastern block countries is lined with massive rows of identical apartment houses.


The rolling hills to the west of Brasov follow the same Bucegi Mountains but on the other side. Again we see rolling hills, dotted by little towns along the way. Sibiu comes into view suddenly, a small sweet medieval town with a preserved wall, cobble stone streets and many cafes. Saxon Sibiu is west enough to be part of the old Austria Hungary empire and so feature foods such a goulash. According to Lonely Planet: "Founded on the site of the former Roman village of Cibinium, Sibiu (Herbenstadt to the Saxons, Nagyszeben to the Hungarians) has always been one of the leading cities of Transylvania.) During the peak of Saxon influence Sibiu has some 19 guilds, each representing a craft, within the sturdy city walls protected by 39 towers and four bastions. Under the Hapsburgs from 1703 to 1791 and again from 1849 to 1867, Sibiu served as the seat for the Austrian Governors of Transylvania.(169)



The Museum of Art certainly show contributions of several German and Austrian artists from the 17th and 18th century. Again it had many pieces of wonderful Romanian art especially from the 19th and early twentieth century.


My biggest adventure in Sibiu was to climb the Gothic Evangelical Church tower. I feel compelled whenever I see a tower to climb it, for it affords the best views of the city. Most old towers are spiral staircases which anyone can climb without fear. But the in this tower the spiral staircase ended about one third up, followed by open wooden stairs inside the large open square tower. I found myself a little frightened climbing up. But the views given the stout of heart were well worth the climb. Four tower rooms give a 360 degree view of the city.


By the time I climbed down the tower, it was time to head back to Bucharest, a four or five hour ride, I had been told. The road from Sibiu to Pitesti follows a river and a narrow mountain gorge- very beautiful the entire way. But also this is a road with many trucks and few passing lanes. The traffic builds behind the slow trucks, until finally relieved by the occasional double lane up hill.

By nine fifteen I was in Pitesti to catch the highway moving at 130 to 140 km./ hour. I magically found my way to the flat in Bucharest an hour early. I called the rent-a- car man and he was pleased not only with the condition of the car, but that I have given him more gasoline than he had in the beginning.